Why Double Breasted

Our Thoughts / 20th April 2016

At James Palombo all of our suits are cut buy hand offering a flattering fit no matter what your body shape, this helps to highlight strong shoulder lines and a waisted silhouette.

This is a key reason as to why any gentleman can wear a double breasted jacket, it helps to create height and provide shape for the shorter man and those with a fuller figure. The double breasted suit is an uncompromised garment that has stood the test of time and an iconic sartorial style that continues to always be in favour.


The original double-breasted jacket had six buttons with three to close and originated from 18th century naval reefer jackets. Since shorter men found that version overwhelms their torso, a four button (one fastening) and a six button (with two closing buttons) were created.

Popular from the mid-1930s until the late 1950s, and again from the mid-1980s into the 1990s,double-breasted suits were seen as a key power suit option and were characterised by having an American boxier fit, wide lapels and a much looser drape. An unfortunate image that still deters a lot of people from adding a double breasted suit to their business or even casual wardrobe.

The double breasted suit has made a comeback over recent years and as with everything else has the DB has returned with a sleeker more fitted silhouette for the modern man. The shoulders are softer and the jacket waist more fitted bringing this classic suit in line with today’s trends. The jacket has also been given a shorter hemline compared to create a more modern look without taking away the feel of tradition.

Double breasted suits in my opinion work exceptionally in all weights of cloth and half lining them makes them perfect for spring, whilst heavier more robust weights of cloth create a forceful and commanding garment.

There are several ways in creating different looks with the jacket whilst maintaining a classic look that’s works across seasons and can easily take you from the office to evening. Plain cloths or wider patterns work especially well with a DB suit keeping the overall look smart yet interesting for the office, the key though is in the cutting and only a hand cut garment can make the DB’s shape flattering, fused, off the peg garments will still make you look like an extra from the classic 80’s film, Wall Street!!!!